Instructions 2 – Chassis
The second stage of the build is bolting the chassis itself together.
2 * Chassis plates – GRP001
6 * 28mm chassis spacers – SPR001
1 * Motor plate – GRP003
4 * 8mm motor plate spacers – SPR002
1 * ESC plate – GRP004
1 * Centre layshaft – CNC001
1 * Pulley layshaft – CNC002
1 * Front pulley/spur gear mount – SHP003
2 * Front pulley bearings – BRG003
4 * body posts – PLS001
2 * Stratch bar bar holders – PLS002
1 * Spur gear – U4123
6mm shims – SPR004
Kamtec body clips
i) You can use an M3 taper tap to start the threads off in the printed parts but don’t over do things, as it’s best to have the threads tight than loose. Alternatively run a 2.5mm drill in to the holes to clear out any unfused nylon and then it should be easier to start the threads.
ii) If you need to remove any of the fasteners secured with thread lock and they seem stuck then you need to apply some heat to melt the thread lock, eg with a small gas torch.
iii) The bearings are normally a nice press in nylon parts. If they are loose then you can secure them with a tiny drop of super glue gel and if they are overly tight then use a hobby knife to carefully chamfer the outside of the hole a little and ease them in.
1) Attach the 28mm brass chassis plate spacers to the LHS chassis plate as per the photo below. Use M3*8 low cap head screws. Note two of holes for the posts are slotted in the centre of the chassis (for use with the optional motor clamp) you need to align the posts at the ends of the slots, towards the motor cut out.
2) Fit a scratch bar holder to the LHS plate using the large plastic nut. I put the rubber washer on the outside.
3) Fit the body posts to the LHS chassis plate using M3*8 low cap head screws. The body posts need cutting to length and two body clips fitting in each post. I put the body post with the shorter base at the front and the longer one at the rear. Then use a clip in third and fourth hole from the base on front post and the second and third hole from the base on the rear post.
4) Add the scratch bar holder and body posts to the RHS chassis plate, as per the LHS plate.
5) Fit the centre layshaft to the LHS chassis plate. Use an M4*10 button head bolt and the large (12mm) M4 washer. It is important that you fix this screw in with some strong thread lock.
6) Sit the swingarm on the layshaft. You need to place a 0.3mm 6mm shim either side of the swingarm – these stop it rubbing on the chassis plates.
7) Sit the RHS plate over the layshaft and secure the RHS plate with two M3*8 low cap head screws in the battery mounts and four of the 8mm brass motor plate spacers. You also need to fit the ESC plate at this stage. Tip – to help line everything up and keep the shim on the centre layshaft – I always fit an M4x10 bolt through RHS chassis plate and in to the layshaft first just to keep everything captive. Once you have the ESC plate and all the bolts in place then you can remove the M4 bolt.
8) Fit the pulley layshaft to the RHS chassis plate. You do this by inserting a 2mm allen driver to the end of the layshaft without a thread and there is the head of a grubscrew inside the layshaft itself. It is important that you fix this screw in with some strong thread lock.
9) Secure the motor plate with M3*8 screws – countersunk ones at the rear and low cap head ones at the front. Tip – if the motor plate does not quite line up then release the two chassis posts in the slotted holes and reposition.
10) Push the two bearings in to the front pulley/spur gear mount and spur gear.
11) Place a 0.3mm 6mm shim on the pulley shaft and then fit the pulley. The shim keeps the pulley from rubbing on the chassis plate. As you fit the pulley make sure the belt is off of the rear pulley and that it locates over the pulley as you slide it on. Once the front is located then you can slip the belt over the rear pulley as well. The pulley is retained with an M4*8 button head screw and the small (9mm) M4 washer. It is important that you DO NOT thread lock this screw.
12) The spur gear mounts with three M3*6 button head bolts.